Blossom end rot is not the end of the world!

I know how painful it is when you lose a crop to the elements. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt! But when it’s something unexpected, like blossom end rot, it’s hard to accept. Especially when it could have been prevented.

What is blossom end rot?

You’ve probably seen pictures of it. Or, you may have seen it in your garden but weren’t exactly sure what it was. It’s more common than you might imagine and it plagues even seasoned gardeners. And it can happen, not just to tomatoes, but to peppers, squash, cucumbers and melons. If the fruit starts life as a bloom, there is a chance it will happen.

Container gardeners beware…it’s more likely to happen to you than in the garden!

Blossom end rot starts out as a bruised-looking, wet spot on the bottom (blossom end) of a tomato. It can quickly grow to look dark, sunken and leathery. Eventually, the whole tomato will rot.

This is what blossom end rot looks like when it’s just getting started…

 

 

And this is what it looks like when it’s well under way.

 

Yeah, it’s ugly. And it’s enough to make you cry!

But fear not, gentle gardener…all is not lost!

 

 

What causes blossom end rot?

Blossom end rot results when a plant isn’t able to take up calcium quickly enough to keep up with its own growth. There are many things that can contribute to this and the cause is hotly debated. It could be something as simple as the plant receiving too much water. Perhaps not enough water. Add in extreme fluctuations in watering combined with a drought and you have another possibility. Any one of these could be the culprit. But it’s a strong possibility that they’re all related somehow.

 But first…time to share a truth bomb!

We have never had an issue with blossom end rot until this year. I blame it on hubby. He left the soaker hose running for more than 24 hours! Granted, it wasn’t intentional. I knew what was coming (besides a humungous water bill) as soon as he told me.

But I was determined to be vigilant. As Barney Fife is so fond of saying, I was prepared to “nip it in the bud” if I saw anything out of the ordinary.

Except….

He did the same thing a week later!

Needless to say, he is no longer in charge of the soaker hose.

But this is what I’m talking about…extreme fluctuations. We had been having dryer than normal weather conditions up to this point. And he missed watering one day because he forgot. As a result, he tried to make up for it. Only to forget about the water being turned on…again!

For the garden to be inundated with that much water over a short period of time? Well…it was just asking for trouble.

Other factors that may cause blossom end rot:

– As you can see, blossom end rot can be caused by over-watering. Especially if the plants were going through a drought prior to that. But don’t blame the water. It’s the plant that is unable to do what it needs to do. 

– Since blossom end rot tends to affect very young fruit early in the season, it may also be caused by planting too early. Soil temperature for tomatoes need to be at least 60 degrees consistently, prior to planting. If the soil is too cold, root development will suffer. And the roots are how a plant gets its nutrients.

– Another issue, as mentioned previously, may be that there wasn’t enough calcium in the soil to begin with. That’s why a soil test prior to planting is so important.

– Soil that is high in salts can also cause blossom end rot. Again, do a soil test.

– Root damage is another cause of blossom end rot. Did you stake your plants after they were grown or nearly mature? Maybe you got a little too deep when you were weeding with the hoe? Are there any critters digging in your garden? Root damage is most likely to occur during these times. If the roots are damaged, they have a hard time taking in nutrients…no matter how much is in the soil.

– I mentioned earlier that container tomatoes tend to acquire blossom end rot more frequently than garden plants. This is due to the soil being more at risk for fluctuations in watering. This could be caused by poor drainage in the pot or being watered “on a schedule”…even when the plant doesn’t need it. Many people think that the “water deeply” philosophy only pertains to the garden. Not so!

Can blossom end rot be prevented?

Once a tomato has succumbed to blossom end rot, it’s pretty much lights out for that tomato. The good news is that it does not spread to other tomatoes or other plants. So, there is a chance that you can prevent an all-out war on your tomatoes if you catch it early.

Here are a few suggestions:

– Don’t plant too early. Soil temperatures need to be at least 60 degrees or higher, consistently, to ensure good root development.

– Do a soil test. They’re easy, inexpensive and will let you know 1) if you need to amend the soil and 2) what you need to amend it with. Easy peasy!

– Prevent root damage by staking your plants at the time of planting. And go easy with the hoe when weeding. If you need to put up a fence to keep critters from digging in your garden, I highly recommend it.

– Add a bit of calcium to the planting hole before putting the plant in. You can do this with powdered egg shells (my favorite), crushed oyster shells or crushed calcium tablets. I’ve also heard that a Tums tablet works wonders as well!

– Use mulch to retain moisture and prevent having to water more frequently.

– Keep a gardening journal on the variety of plants that you grow. Some are more prone to issues like blossom end rot so it would be wise to choose a variety that is more resistant. Keep track of what works in your soil so you can head off any trouble before it starts and before next planting season.

– Water deeply and consistently. If you water several times a week for short periods of time…STOP! If you forget to water, don’t try to make up for it! Just water the way you normally would. Shallow watering only encourages roots to stay close to the surface of the soil. The roots need to go deep if you want strong, healthy, productive plants.

Try this: stick your finger a few inches into the soil. If it feels dry at the tip of your finger, you’re not watering deeply enough. Deep watering twice a week should be sufficient for most gardens without running the risk of acquiring blossom end rot. Consistency is the key![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]